I often witness students trying to sweep under ½” or more of the seam allowance at a time before taking a stitch. Only sweep under little bits of your seam allowance at a time. Sweep your fabric under until the folded edge aligns with your circle's shape. Once you remove a basting thread and sweep under the seam allowance, you can use the "holes" to get the smooth shape of your circle. Now, as you remove the basting threads, one at a time, the basting line becomes your stitching line. When you basted, you were right on the line of your circle. You can always trim away to create a 1/8" seam allowance if 1/4" feels like too much as you are needle-turning. I suggest you create a 1/4" seam allowance if this is your first time. Trim your seam allowance parallel to your basting line. Next, trim away the excess fabric to create a seam allowance of 1/8” – ¼”. Do the basting stitches communicate a circle to your eye? If not, re-baste adjusting the length and closeness of your basting stitches. If you are unsure about how you are basting the circle, flip the piece over to the front and look. My 1 - 1/2" red circle was basted with stitches that were about 1/4" long and about 1/4" apart. My 1/2" diameter yellow circle was basted with stitches that were 1/8" long and about 1/8" apart. If my circle is large, my stitches can be longer and will be a bit farther apart than if it’s a small, tight circle. That’s where you are going to put your next basting stitch. Using your eye, see where the next peak of the circle is in relation to your last stitch. You want to baste along the drawn line of your circle. I use our Trace, Baste, Snip & Stitch process when I needle-turn applique and reverse applique.
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